This pattern is named after the yarn because frankly, that's all there is. The simplest stockinette sweater, with very subtle waist shaping, was the best way I could think to show off a yarn that can speak entirely for itself. Of course, other yarns would work--anything drapey and soft and special will do. Worked with three inches negative ease, the sweater is comfy and good-looking to boot.
Sizes X-Small (32-34 bust), small (34-36), medium (36-38), large (38-40) (Shown in Size Small.)
Materials:
2 (2, 3, 3) Skeins Brooks Farm Ellie (800-1200 yards DK weight)
US 9 20-inch circular needle.
Tapestry needle
5 stitch markers
2 stitch holders or spare yarn
Gauge:
32 rows=4 inches
20 stitches=4 inches
Pattern:CO 96 (96, 100, 100) sts.
Join, PM, work in garter stitch for 4 rnds, beginning with a knit rnd.
Size XS & S: (k8, m1) 12X, k to end.
Size M & L: (k12, m1) 8X, k to end.
All sizes: 108 sts on needle.
k40, PM, k14, PM, k40, PM, k14, PM.
(K to 1st st before m, m1, k1, slm, k1, m1, k to 1st before next m, m1, k1) around.
K 1 rnd.
Repeat last 2 rnds 14, 16, 18, 20X--228 (244, 260, 276) sts. On the last round, remove all markers except the end-of-round marker .
K across back sts, place 44 (48, 52, 56) sleeve sts on holder, PM, k across front sts, place 44 (48, 52, 56) sleeve sts on holder, PM, k across back sts to end-of-rnd marker--140 (148, 156, 164) sts.
K even until piece measures 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10) inches, measured from center back.
Waist shaping:
(k to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k2, ssk) 2x.
Work 6 (8, 10, 12) rnds.
Repeat these 7 (9, 11, 13) rnds 2x more--128 (136, 144, 152) sts.
Work another 12 (14, 17, 20) rnds even.
Hip shaping:
(k to 1 st before m, m1, k2, m1) 2x.
Work 6 (8, 10, 12) rnds.
Repeat these 7 (9, 11, 13) rnds 3x more --144 (152, 160, 168) sts.
Work even until piece measures 20.5 (22, 23.5, 25) in, measured from center back.
p1 rnd
k1 rnd
p1 rnd
k1 rnd
p1 rnd
k1 rnd
BO all sts loosely.
Sleeves:
Place left sleeve sts on needles, RS facing, and attach yarn. Work even for 3 (3.5, 3, 3.5) inches, ending with a WS row.
k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 7 (7, 9, 11) rows in stockinette.
Repeat these 8 (8, 10, 12) rows 2x more--38 (42, 46, 50) sts.
Work even for 18 (20, 18, 20) rows.
k1, ssk, k to last 3 st, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 (5, 7, 9) rows in stockinette.
Repeat these 4 (6, 8, 10) rows 2x more--32 (36, 40, 44) sts.
Work another 8 (8, 10, 8) rows in stockinette.
(k 8(9, 10, 11) m1) 3x, k7 (8, 9, 10), m1, k1--36 (40, 44, 48) sts.
Work 7 (7, 9, 11) rows in stockinette.
(k9 (10, 11, 12) m1) 3x, k8 (9, 10, 11), m1, k1--40 (44, 48, 52) sts.
Work 7 (7, 9, 11) rows in stockinette.
(k10 (11, 12, 13) m1) 3x, k9 (10, 11, 12), m1, k1--44 (48, 52, 56) sts.
Work 7 (7, 9, 11) rows in stockinette.
P 6 rows.
BO all sts.
Repeat for right sleeve.
Finishing:
Sew up sleeves, tack down any space under the raglan arms, weave in ends. Give it a good swirl in warm water to relax the thick-thin yarn, lay flat to dry.
26 comments:
very cute and so simple! thanks for sharing.
what a cute pullover! Thanks for sharing. I have so many handspun yarn that I can use for this one.
Thanks so much for sharing. It is a gorgeous sweater.
Hi! I absolutely LOVE this pullover, and I am eager to try to make it. I have a question, though: I love the yarn you used, but it's a bit too pricey for my budget right now. I'm a fairly new knitter, and I've never substituted yarn for a project like this before. Can you suggest some other type of yarn? I'm wondering if you think a DK weight Superwash Merino would work? Or...? Thanks!
Hmm...a DK weight might be a little on the thin side, but that might be exactly what you're looking for, if you want a kind of lacyish sweater. If you want something a little warmer, I'd go up to a light worsted or a worsted weight yarn.
Thanks, Nikki--that's really helpful. I am having an easier time finding worsted weight yarns that I love--and can afford, anyway. I can't wait to start knitting!
Ginger,
You can substitute yarns. . . Always follow the needle size suggested by the yarn you are using (on the label) check with the sample you knit. Measure a 4 inch square and count the number of rows and stitches. . . for the 4 inches in each direction width is stitches per inch... and length is rows per inch. . . If you knit in the same gauge as the label says or the pattern requires. . .Great ! Otherwise simply adjust your needle sizes to match the required gauge for the number of stitches to use in the patern. I hope this helps you feel ready to substitute yarn. . .
Hi, I am a new knitter and this is my first sweater. I have a fairly silly question. When in the pattern you have "Knit across back sts. . ." How do you tell which are the back stitches and which are the front? :)
Thanks in advance!
Hi Sacara,
Not a silly question, since the front and the back are exactly the same! I choose to call the side with the end of round marker the back, since it's a little less neat and then I won't be looking at it, but it really doesn't matter. When you complete the round, knit to the first sleeve, put that on hold, and knit to the second sleeve, and put that on hold. Call whichever side you want front or back--it makes no difference!
Hi,
Love the sweater. I'm a new knitter too, and don't understand the count for increasing. Looks like increase before and after each of 3 stitch markers, which makes 6 stitches a row, times 20 plus 1 rows, which makes an increase total of 126 stitches for the large. So the total is 234?? Not 276?
Sure I'm counting wrong somehow but could you go into a tiny bit more detail for us novices?
A million thanks.
I am going to make this sweater if I can, but I am a beginner knitter. I just have one question about the pattern. It says several times,for instance: "Knit -However many stitches here- before m, m1, k2..." so on and so forth. Could someone please tell me what "m" means? I know "m1" means "make 1" so does "m" by itself mean "make"? Thanks so much, and sorry if I sound a little silly!
-15 Year Old Beginner
Hi--
"m" means stitch marker...good luck!
Nikki
I haven't started the sweater yet... but I am In the next day or so.
I am a fairly new knitter and my big question is "bind off loosely"?? I see this in many patterns and I have yet to feel as though something is loosely bound off.
How do you get the most flexable bind off??
Thanks a bunch :) I am looking sooooo forward to my new sweater!!!
Well, I just make sure not to pull the yarn too tight. There are several different kinds of bind-offs--sewn bind-off, etc. that you can google (knitty.com is a great resource) but generally, I just don't pull it too tight! Or you can use a larger size needle for the bind-off...That's another handy trick.
Best,
Nikki
Thanks Nikki!!! That does help, you know us newbee's strangle every needle we see :) The larger needle is such a simple and easy fix as well
Grinning Big,
Maura
HI Nikki,
I too love the simplicity of this sweater. Couple questions, bare with me:
(1) I used a 9" circular with 8 ply merino wool, although the yarn label suggested a 6 US needle. But the tension was more than fine. Thoughts as to how this might play out with this, only my second, sweater (I thought DK and 8 ply were synonymous?). And (2) what do you think of the idea of trying a raglan sleeve with this silhouette? Thanks so much!
Nikki,
Rereading your directions I noticed that you refer to the sleeves as being raglan. Couldn't see it in the picture I guess! Also, what does "work 3 rows negative" mean? Sorry for the annoying tutorial questions.
Hi Liz,
You know, I don't spin, but the yarn I used is single-ply and was referred to on the label as single-ply....
Three inches negative ease is a descriptive term--the sweater is designed to stretch a little bit.
Best,
Nikki
Great job!, beautiful!
Did you ever answer the Sept. 18 question from Anonymous? I have the same question. Am I correct that there is no M1 stitch after the third marker? Are the number of stitches after repeating the 2 rounds 14, 16,18,20 X correct? I end up with a lot fewer than what's stated in the pattern. Please clarify. Thank you!
It's a standard raglan sweater, so there's an increase before and after 4 stitch markers, but not around the center back (end of round) marker.
I just got the needles I ordered for this sweater in the mail today! I've been waiting forever it seems and I'm so excited :) Thank you for the free pattern. I will try my best to let you know how it turns out for me.
Okay. So I'm almost finished with the sweater here (SO EXCITED!) but I have a question. You say that you swirl it in water when you're finished with everything. Why? Would that direction majorly differ depending on the yarn used? I used yarn that's 80% Acrylic, 10% Wool, and 10% Mohair. The washing directions on the label say machine wash, lay flat to dry. Any suggestions anyone?
Also, the collar keeps flipping down because of the stockinette stitch even though it has a border. Tips anyone?
Btw, it's looking FABULOUS! :D
The swirling and laying flat is to block the sweater--which will take care of your curling problem.
I'm so excited to start this! I've made 2 of your patterns so far and I have to say they are my favorites. They turned out beautifully and were so easy to follow. I just have one dumb question before I start this sweater: in the very beginning of the pattern, are you increasing during the garter stitch rounds or is it just one round of increasing as soon you finish the 4 garter rounds? Thank you!
Hi there,
I'm so glad you're enjoying the patterns!
Yes, it's just an increase round right after the garter collar--and then you go straight into the raglan yoke.
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