Errata


 What To Knit: The Toddler Years

P. 70 Eli Sweater.   Work straight in pattern until Back measures 30cm (31cm, 33cm, 34cm, 36cm)

P. 74 Olivia Cardigan.  Setting stitch markers before beginning lace pattern, this row should read: k10 (9, 11, 11, 18), pm, k23, pm, [k8 (10, 10, 14, 12), pm, k23, pm]3X, k to end.

P. 82.  Joseph Sweater.  The stitch counts and buttonholes are all screwy in the beginning of the Body.  They should read:

Next row (buttonhole row) (RS): k3, yf, k2tog, [k to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, sl m] x 2, k to end.  114 (122, 126, 134, 138) sts.

*Work 15 rows straight in pattern.

Next row (buttonhole row) (RS): k3, yf, k2tog, [k to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, sl m] x 2, k to end.  112 (120, 124, 132, 136) sts.

Repeat from * once more so you have 4 buttonholes, ending with a buttonhole row.  110 (118, 122, 130, 134) sts.





What To Knit When You're Expecting, The American Edition:

If you scroll below, you'll find images of corrected pages from a later edition of the book, which you can save or print and use at your leisure.  
P. 26.  Noah Sweater.  Please ignore second set of measurements given just before beginning raglan shaping.  Second set of measurements can be used to determine length at the end of the raglan shaping.

Sleeves:  Repeat from *** 9 (11, 13)X more.

P. 41. Hannah Jacket.  Gauge is given in US 9/5.5 mm needles, not in US 8/5 mm needles.

P 49.  Baby Cozy.   There is only “One Size.”

P. 50. Baby Cozy.  Each instance of working in garter stitch after increasing is: Work in garter stitch for 5 rows.

P. 55.  Bloomers.  Row 1 of edging is: k2 (yf)2X, k2--6 sts. 

P. 58.  Shorts.  After legs are joined, stitch count is 88(100, 112) sts.

P. 66.  Maile Cardigan.  After lace pattern along yoke has been worked 3X, stitch count is 79(97, 115) sts.  Neckline shaping for each size is:

            Small Size Only:

            Next row: K to last 4 sts, k2tog, yf, k2.

           
Next row: *K11, k2tog, repeat from * to last st, end k1.  (73 sts).

           
Next row:  k to end.

           
Next row: *K10, k2tog, repeat from * to last st, end k1 (67 sts).

           
Next row:  k to end.

            Medium Size Only:

            Work 2 more rows as established, including a buttonhole row.  (89 sts.)

           
Next row: *K12, k2tog, repeat from * to last 5 sts, end k5.  (83 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row: *K11, k2tog, repeat from * to last 5 sts, end k5 (77 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row:  *K10, k2tog, repeat from * to last 5 sts, end k5 (71 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

            Large Size Only:

            Work 4 more rows as established, including a buttonhole row.  (99 sts).

           
Next row:  *k14, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k3 (93 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row: *k13, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k3 (87 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row: *k12, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k3 (81 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

P. 74.  Sophie.  Row 1 of Raglan Section, stitch count is 72(64, 70) sts.  Row 2 of Raglan Section, stitch count is 95(85, 93) sts.  Row 3 of Raglan Section, stitch count is 103(93, 101) sts.  Row 7 of Raglan Section, stitch count is 119(109, 117) sts.  Row 10 of Raglan Section, stitch count is 92(91, 97) sts.  Row 11 of Raglan Section, stitch count is 100(99, 105) sts.

P. 75.  Sophie.  Sleeve for 0-3 months stitch count for Row 16 is 104 sts.  All Sizes stitch count after joining to work in the round is 112(122, 126) sts.  Stitch count when working even after side increases is 132(146, 154) sts.

Page 83.  Pants.  Please ignore notes on Magic Loop under Tabs, as they are totally irrelevant.

P. 86.  Old Man.  All Sizes R2, stitch count is 86 (92, 98) sts.

Page 90.  Ike Vest.  Left Shoulder is: K10, cast off 15 (18, 21), k to end.

Page 95.  Autumn Leaves. Back and Sides, 2nd “Next Row” is: K1, p1, k1, p1, k18, pm, k51, pm, k18, p1, k1, p1, k1.  Work 5 rows straight keeping 4 edge sts in moss st as established.   

Back and Sides, 3rd “Next Row” is: *K1, p1, k1, p1 (k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1) X 2, k to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1.  99 sts.  Work 5 rows straight keeping 4 edge sts in moss st as established.  Repeat from * 5 times more.  119 sts.   

Page 96.  Emily Dress.  Materials: 3 (3, 4) balls Rowan Cashsoft DK.

P. 112. Diamond brocade cloth.  Row 5 is: *P1, k7, repeat from * to last st, p1. 

P. 116.  Bib.  Right Neckline, 3rd “Next Row,” stitch count is 8 sts. 

P. 124.  Button Bag.  Once you have 33 sts on needle and 33 sts on holder, slip 33 needles on holder onto left needle.  Flap, Row 1 is: WS: K2, p29, k2.  Flap, Row 2 is: RS: P2, k29, p2. 

P. 129.  Maddox Hat.  Earflaps are worked in garter stitch. 

P. 137.  Monkey.  Row that reaches 30 sts is: p2, p2tog, p to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2.  Row that reaches 32 sts is: p2 with MC, m1p with MC, p1 with MC, p2togtbl with CC and MC held together, m1p with CC, p20 with CC, m1p with CC p2tog, with CC and MC held together, p1 with MC, m1p with MC, p1 with MC.  32 sts. 

P. 138.  Monkey.  After working 5 rows straight with colors as established, decrease row stitch counts are 38 sts, 36 sts, 34 sts, 32 sts, 30 sts,  28 sts, 26 sts, 24 sts, and finally 22 sts. 

Page 139.  Monkey.  Third “Next Row” is: K2 with MC, sl sl k with MC, k1 with MC, m1 with MC, sl sl k with CC & MC held together, k12 with CC, k2tog with CC & MC held together, m1 with MC, k1 with MC, k2tog with MC, k2 with MC.  








What To Knit When You're Expecting, The UK Edition:


If you scroll below, you'll find images of corrected pages from a later edition of the book, which you can save or print and use at your leisure.  

P. 26.  Noah Sweater.  Please ignore second set of measurements given just before beginning raglan shaping.  Second set of measurements can be used to determine length at the end of the raglan shaping.

P. 41. Hannah Jacket.  Tension is given in US 9/5.5 mm needles, not in US 8/5 mm needles.

P 49.  Baby Cozy.   There is only “One Size.”

P. 55.  Bloomers.  Row 1 of edging is: k2 (yf)2X, k2--6 sts. 

P. 58.  Shorts.  Cast on 40(46, 52) sts. After legs are joined, stitch count is 88(100, 112) sts.

P. 66.  Maile Cardigan.  After lace pattern along yoke has been worked 3X, stitch count is 79(97, 115) sts.  Neckline shaping for each size is:

            Small Size Only:

            Next row: K to last 4 sts, k2tog, yf, k2.

           
Next row: *K11, k2tog, repeat from * to last st, end k1.  (73 sts).

           
Next row:  k to end.

           
Next row: *K10, k2tog, repeat from * to last st, end k1 (67 sts).

           
Next row:  k to end.

            Medium Size Only:

            Work 2 more rows as established, including a buttonhole row.  (89 sts.)

           
Next row: *K12, k2tog, repeat from * to last 5 sts, end k5.  (83 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row: *K11, k2tog, repeat from * to last 5 sts, end k5 (77 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row:  *K10, k2tog, repeat from * to last 5 sts, end k5 (71 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

            Large Size Only:

            Work 4 more rows as established, including a buttonhole row.  (99 sts).

           
Next row:  *k14, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k3 (93 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row: *k13, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k3 (87 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.

           
Next row: *k12, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 sts, end k3 (81 sts).

           
Next row: k to end.


P. 75.  Sophie.  Sleeve for 0-3 months stitch count for Row 16 is 104 sts.  All Sizes stitch count after joining to work in the round is 112(122, 126) sts.  Stitch count when working even after side increases is 132(146, 154) sts.

P. 86.  Old Man.  All Sizes R2, stitch count is 86 (92, 98) sts.

Page 95.  Autumn Leaves. Back and Sides, 2nd “Next Row” is: K1, p1, k1, p1, k18, pm, k51, pm, k18, p1, k1, p1, k1.  Work 5 rows straight keeping 4 edge sts in moss st as established.  Back and Sides, 3rd “Next Row” is: *K1, p1, k1, p1 (k to m, m1, sl m, k1, m1) X 2, k to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1.  99 sts.  Repeat from * 5 times more.  119 sts.  

P. 116.  Bib.  Right Neckline, 3rd “Next Row,” stitch count is 8 sts. 

P. 124.  Button Bag.  Once you have 33 sts on needle and 33 sts on holder, slip 33 needles on holder onto left needle.  Flap, Row 1 is: WS: K2, p29, k2.  Flap, Row 2 is: RS: P2, k29, p2. 

P. 129.  Maddox Hat.  Earflaps are worked in garter stitch. 


P. 137.  Monkey.  Row that reaches 30 sts is: p2, p2tog, p to last 4 sts, p2togtbl, p2.  Row that reaches 32 sts is: p2 with MC, m1p with MC, p1 with MC, p2togtbl with CC and MC held together, m1p with CC, p20 with CC, m1p with CC p2tog, with CC and MC held together, p1 with MC, m1p with MC, p1 with MC.  32 sts. 

P. 138.  Monkey.  After working 5 rows straight with colors as established, decrease row stitch counts are 38 sts, 36 sts, 34 sts, 32 sts, 30 sts,  28 sts, 26 sts, 24 sts, and finally 22 sts. 

Page 139.  Monkey.  Third “Next Row” is: K2 with MC, sl sl k with MC, k1 with MC, m1 with MC, sl sl k with CC & MC held together, k12 with CC, k2tog with CC & MC held together, m1 with MC, k1 with MC, k2tog with MC, k2 with MC. 

To make things easier, here are images of corrected pages from a later edition of the book, which you can save or print and use at your leisure:
Page 26
 Page 41

Page 49

Page 50
 Page 55
Page 58
 

Page 64
 Page 66
 Pages 74-75
Page 86
 Page 90

 Page 95
 Page 112
Page 116
Page 124
 Page 129
Page 135
Page 137
 Pages 138-139


105 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for these corrections, will save me getting frustrated later. I'm puzzled by instructions for 'baby cozy' sizes state 0-3 (3-6, 6-12) months but instructions are for one size only.......which one is it? And where can I get alternate size instructions? Hope you can help.Julie

Nikki Van De Car said...

Yeah, that's in the errata--the pattern is written for only one size, 0-3 months, because my experience showed me that I stood no chance of squeezing a squirming older baby into one.

However if you want to make a larger size, I could give you some tips for adapting the pattern...

Sue said...

Can I please check instructions for Noah jumper? Decreasing k2 sl sl knit to last 4 k2 tog k k. Why isn't pattern symmetrical?

Sue said...

Sorry nikki, all sorted out

Anonymous said...

Hi! I need help with the striped boatneck page 70...I did size 0-3 and I think the sleeve is so long... What is the measure for the sleeves??? Thanks in advance!!

Nikki Van De Car said...

The sleeve length for 0-3 is 22 cm. If that feels long to you, you can easily just stop knitting earlier, or increase slightly more frequently, and it should be fine.

Anonymous said...

Thanks!!! I'll try

Ann Beaulieu said...

Hi!
Has the French edition been adjusted? The edition is 2013 for Canada. Thank you

Nikki Van De Car said...

The French addition has most of these errors cleared up, but if you spot any, please let me know!

Ali said...

Hi there, I just cannot get the neck right for the Noah sweater (everything else is finished). So when I pick up the stitches I have the work facing me (with the pocket facing me) picking up with my left needle working left to right? Then when they are all picked up I knit a row (so working from back of piece to the front again?) I just don't seem to get the garter stitch effect but rather a stocking stitch which doesn't look anywhere near as nice. Thanks for your help!

Nikki Van De Car said...

Well, it sounds like I pick up sts in the other direction. The garter is actually brought on by the subsequent row and cast off, but if it isn't working out right for you, why don't you try picking up sts with WS facing? That might get the effect you want.

Anonymous said...

Just want to check on the Autumn Leaves sweater: Row 22 within the stars is printed *yb, p2, k3, p2, yb, sl1, k1, pssp, k1, k2tog, repeat from *; wondering if it is supposed to read *yo, p2, k3, p2, yb, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, repeat from * Thanks

Nikki Van De Car said...

Well, the "pssp" is certainly a typo, but actually we chose "yb" because it's a clearer description of what is required there. Yarn back, meaning leave your yarn in the back of your knitting, and then purl. And then take the yarn back again.

The way you've written it is certainly also correct.

Anonymous said...

Hi Nikki, Expecting my first and knitting up the Noah jumper. I have the UK 2012 edition and have started on the sleeves in 0-3mths. I am at the bottom of page 26 and have knitted to 28 stitches but am stuck. The instructions read repeat from * 9(11,13) times more and next row: p to end then cast off all sts. However there is no * from which to repeat from and it doesn't say how many stitches you should be casting off hence I can't make it up either? I have checked Ravelry for clues but no comments there either, Can you help please? Best wishes, Fiona

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi,

Oh dear, that is confusing! It should read "Repeat from *** 9 (11, 13)X more."

Anonymous said...

Thanks Nikki, having re-read it without a muddled baby brain I guessed that was what shuld happen. I am really pleased with how it has come along. Just a little more to do on the front and then its time to sew up and pick up the neck stitches. I followed your colour choices in a debbie bliss cotton yarn and will post teh end results on Ravelry. Many thanks, Fiona

Anna Fitzpatrick said...

Hi Nikki, Looking at the errata page does the Maile sweater come in different sizes in your book? I'd love to knit this in a 9-12 mo size as my daughter will be 3 months in May. A pretty hot month in Texas.

Nikki Van De Car said...

Yes! The Maile Sweater is available in 0-3 months, 3-6 months, and 6-12 months.

Franck said...

Hi Nikki,

I'm a bit confused with the shorts page 58 of the uk edition.
I have both legs done; one on the regular needles and one on the circular needles but i am now stuck... I have knitted the extra row and casted on the extra 4 stiches on each but i don't know how to "join to work in the round" those two separate pieces.
Could you please explain me how to do it?

Thanks!
Franck.

Nikki Van De Car said...

It's very simple, once you get your head around it--you just keep knitting! You should have all your stitches on the same set of circular needles, so you just place your marker, and then knit the next stitch. It feels very awkward at first--you've got lots of stitch pulling at each other around the legs, but it'll loosen up after five rows or so, and then you'll be in the clear.

Franck said...

Thanks Nikki for your reply but unfortunatelly i didn't manage to do it so after a couple of attempts i had to give up... I will try to find an easier pattern later but for now i will knit the baby cozy.

Thanks,
Franck.

Anonymous said...

I'm having trouble with the Time Flies Booties. It's the part after row 18, you're supposed to have 48sts, which I did. Then, row 19 decreases by 4sts (yf,k2tog)x4=44. Next row knit. Then, the next row decreases by 6 (sl sl k)x3 (k2tog)x3=38, but I'm supposed to have 42sts by the time I'm finished row 21. Please help, even if it's my error. Thank you!

Nikki Van De Car said...

The stitch count does end up being 42 by the end, because 18 + 3 +3 + 18 = 42.

I think your error is in not working the yarnovers. There is no decrease on Row 19--the yf cancels out the k2tog. And then six sts are decreased on Row 21, bringing it from 48 to 42 sts.

Anonymous said...

Thank you! I'm still sort of a newb, so I wasn't sure how to work the yf's. I did't know that they were yarn over increases. How do you do work that kind of yo? Thanks again. Just wanted to say that I love your book, and I am happy to say that I made your bib for my two niece's, and they looked great!

Nikki Van De Car said...

It's just the same as a regular yarnover--I had a British publisher, and "yf" is how they write yarnover. I'm so glad you're enjoying the patterns! And if you can do the attached i-cord on the bib, you're hardly a newb!

Anonymous said...

Emily dress - 6-12 months (Canadian edition). I've run out of yarn! :( 3 balls don't seem to be enough for the largest size which is a real pain when the shipping costs are $10, which is tough when you're only ordering 1 more ball...

Nikki Van De Car said...

I'm so sorry to hear this, and thank you for letting me know...that is so frustrating, I'm sorry again!

Anonymous said...

Autumn leaves sweater... CONFUSED... End of back and sides should it be:
A) *work 5 rows straight keeping 4 edge sts in seed stitch as established.
Next row: k1 p1 k1 p1 (etc).repeat from * 5 times more. 119 sts --- similar to the book
OR
B) work 5 rows straight keeping 4 edge sts in seed stitch as established. Next row: * k1 p1 k1 p1 (etc.) Repeat from * 5 times more. 119 sts --- as per errata above.

Option B seems like it would make for a very short sweater? Don't know how you'd get to the 12 inch (13.5 / 14.75) length with option B

Nikki Van De Car said...

According to the row gauge, working 6 rows a total of 6 times should make it long enough, but if it's not as long as you like, I'd sugges putting more rows in between increases to get it where you want it to!

Anonymous said...

Right, but in your correction above, you only repeat the increase rows, not the other 5. So the * should move back to the place where it is in the book.

Nikki Van De Car said...

Ah, I'm sorry that's unclear. I was changing the instructions, not the number of rows. I'll retype--thank you for pointing it out!

katrinakieren said...

Some adorable patterns thank you so much! But question regarding the bloomers pattern error.
In the book I see:
k2,yf,k2,yf,k2.
The correction is:
K2, (yf) 2x, K2.

I am just confused becuase I am not sure how to do a yf twice without a stitch afterit. Or maybe I'm reading this wrong. A yf is a yo, right?

Nikki Van De Car said...

It is, and it feels a little surprising to do a yarnover two times in a row, but that's all you do--flip your yarn over your needle once, and then do it again. You'll knit into the front and then the back of those sts when you work the next row--it's done to create a big hole.

laughingdot said...

Hi, I love the old man cardigan and would love to make it for a toddler. How can I adapt the pattern for a 4 year old? Thanks!

Nikki Van De Car said...

Well, the simplest thing is to figure out the chest circumference you want to reach, and then work the raglan yoke until you reach that circumference, minus of course the sleeve sts. I would cast on more sts to make the neckline bigger, and of course work the body and sleeves longer.

Claire said...

Hi Nikki,
I have just attempted the autumn leaves cardi and after several mistakes I'm finally happy with it. I now want to attempt the Maile cardi and have checked your errata for the UK edition but am a little confused. I intend to make the small size so do your changes for the yoke mean that I skip the following rows:
*K12, K2tog, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3 (81)
Next row: k to end

or knit those two rows then apply your corrections?

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi Claire,

You should replace the neckline shaping in the book with the errata here--the numbers don't work out quite in the book.

Kari Neblett said...

Hello Nikki,
I am new to knitting and I am making Ike's Sweater Vest. I have finished the right and left shoulder for the back. I have transfered the sts from the holder to the needle. How long do I work the front until "RIGHT NECK (FRONT).

Thank you

S

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi,

You don't need to work even on the Front at all; the instruction to work in rows is just to let you know that you're no longer working in the round. Begin working the Right Front section right away!

Kari Neblett said...

Oh, hahaha, I see it now. thank you so much.

Anonymous said...

Hi there!

Love the book! The patterns are really cute - I've made several projects from it already. Glad I found this page though! Seems I've picked all the patterns with errors :)

Just a quick question - working on the Hanna jacket (its sooo beautiful) I'm working on the body and I've just done the first row placing all the markers. I'm now going to work 5 rows then do the second "Next row". It then says to repeat from * 2(3,4) times more. There is no single * though - does it mean repeating from ***? So doing 5 more row between each increase row?

Thanks...

Nikki Van De Car said...

That does mean "repeat from ***," you are exactly right. Sorry about the confusion!

katrinakieren said...

I am knitting the bloomers and I am near to joining in the round. You have specified to use a backward loop cast on and I was wondering if I could use a knitted cast on instead?
Also, I modified the pattern to fit my 1 year old to last hopefully to 18 months and I was wondering if I'd need to cast on more stitches there at the backward loop cast on? There as there wasn't a different amount of cast on stitches for your size variations in that part of the knitting. Thanks in advance!!

katrinakieren said...

Also one other thing, I am still fairly novice to knitting and when you specify to join in the round, as my work is on two different sets of needles at this point and you've had me knit across both legs before joining am I to join on the wrong side row?
And hopefully I am not being too annoying but they ARE supposed to be on two different sets of needles when you specify to join right? :)

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi Katrina,

You can absolutely use a knitted cast-on if you're more comfortable with that; I find a backward loop cast-on easier in that situation, but you should do whatever works for you! I'd cast on an extra stitch for the crotch just to be on the safe side. You should have finished with a WS row and have a RS row ready to go for the join (and yes, they should be on two different needles, and then you knit them together onto the circular needle.

katrinakieren said...

Thank you for the quick reply! I'm feeling less confused now after stepping away from it for the day and with your help. Thank you again!

katrinakieren said...

Ah one more... I don't know why I can't get past this bit. I think socks were easier. lol
OK so I went ahead and slipped all the stitches onto one circular needle and Knitted across the leg that still had the working yarn attached and I am coming to the next leg which isn't attached to the first at all and I am about to Cast on those stitches but I am not sure if I am supposed to cast them on to the left needle and then work them, or cast onto the left needle.. (that might be a stupid question)
As well as when I knit into the next leg I am getting a ladder that keeps making me thing I am doing it wrong. I might need to just tighten up, probably. But I am feeling very novice today.

katrinakieren said...

Oops I mean or cast them onto the right needle*

Anonymous said...

Hi Nikki
I am an experienced knitter and was delighted to receive 2 of your books as a present. What to knit etc and 60 more baby knits. I've almost finished the Autumn leaves cardi and had made the corrections to the pattern before I looked for the errata. One thing that does puzzle me is that the needle size is given as a circular 30cm. I can't see the need to use a circular (I used a straight pair) and it is impossible to see how 151 stitches could be worked on a 30cm. I also note that a number of the other patterns are given as 30 or 40cm. Can you please clarify?

Nikki Van De Car said...

Well, 60 More Baby Knits is not a book of mine (I wish it was!)

I think what we're looking at with Autumn Leaves is just a matter of knitterly preference--I like using circular needles (though you're right, they're unnecessary here) and I like using the shortest ones I possibly can, hence the 30-cm and 40-cm measurements. Of course anybody can use whatever they want!

Anonymous said...

PS As above comment re needle size - it is the UK version of the book

Anonymous said...

Thanks Nikki. A pity I bought the 30/40cm sizes before starting the patterns in your book! I am happy using circulars when they are necessary. Re 60 more baby knits - still to knit from it and I had just assumed that it was by the same author.

Anonymous said...

Hi,
A question about the hat that goes with the Baby Cozy. I'm about to start the M1 increases, and it seems pretty straightforward to repeat from *. However, there is no starting *. So basically my question is this: is it really increasing every round, or is there supposed to be a knit round in between the increases? I've already made the cozy and had to improvise on the garter stitch section because I hadn't found this page yet, and I want to minimize future mistakes. Thanks!

Nikki Van De Car said...

Sorry about that! The * should be placed at the beginning of that round. So the M1 is worked between the needles, one one round only.

Anonymous said...

Baby cozy hat girl again. Increasing every round definitely did not work. After 3 rounds it became impossible to squeeze another make1 into the space between needles. I pulled it out and worked a knit round in between each increase round, and it came out perfectly.

Gina said...

Hi there, I am just in the process of knitting my first sleeve for the Noah sweater (size 3-6 months) and I am stuck. I just did my last (K2 M1,K to last 2 st, M1, K2) and ended up at the correct 40 stitches. Now it says to work even until piece measures 6.5 inches, but my whole piece is already 6.5 inches. Should I use the second set of measurements and knit in stockinette until the piece measures 10 inches? Then start the casting off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows? Thanks so much in advance for your help -- I am 35 weeks and want to get this one done!

Nikki Van De Car said...

If you're already at the 6.5 inches, then you're good to go! Just carry on with the next step. The second set of measurements is an error, please ignore that!

Anonymous said...

I am picking up across the back neck on Ike vest. When the numbers are corrected for the cast off on the back (see Ike errata). There are only 15 stitches there. Do I still try to pick up 24 in that space. Thus is for the 0-3mos size.

Nikki Van De Car said...

The short answer is yes--I wanted the neckline to be super stretchy so it wouldn't be difficult to get over big baby heads, so I did intend to have so many stitches picked up there.

However, if it's uncomfortable for you, or just isn't feeling or looking right, don't bother! Pick up whatever number of stitches feels right.

Anonymous said...

Hi Nice Nikki,

I am working on the Maile sweater. On page 65 under Yoke I am bit confused. Instead of the usual 0-3(3-6,6-9) style of writing instructions; eg 4(5,6) it says just pm, k6, k7; etc. I am knitting the 3-6 size and am not sure which to follow.

Granted, I am still on sleeves, maybe it will make sense when I get there. Just anticipatory anxiety?
Thanks, Carla

Nikki Van De Car said...

Actually, that does read confusingly, but is not a size separation there--all sizes do the same thing. Place marker. K6 sts of body. K7 sts of first sleeve, etc.

It will make sense when you get there!

Anonymous said...

Nikki, I'm working on the border for your Summer Sky baby blanket. I slipped the first stitch on each row as I worked the stockinette sts for the body and now find that I can only pick up a total of 79 sts along the edges. My work measured the 28" for the body so I'm wondering if by slipping the sts I just created a different amount of stitches to work into for those added border sts. Any suggestions or do you think this will be fine. It looks OK after working 2 rows of the Rice Stitch on the first edge. I did pick up and knit the 97 sts along the cast off edge just fine. Here's my email if you want to answer me there: DBNico2254@aol.com

Nikki Van De Car said...

I think if it's working out fine, you shouldn't worry about it! The only thing to pay attention to is making sure that there aren't too few stitches on the edging, which would cause it to pull tight.

Irene Wood said...

Hi,
I am working on the Ike tank top. When I get to the Right Neck (front) section, If I start decreasing in K and leave remaining stitches on a holder I would be working on the LEFT side, not the right. I need to know which is the front centre edge so I can decrease as following the pattern. Thanks Irene.

Nikki Van De Car said...

The Front Center edge is the one without the cast-off edges for the underam.

Irene Wood said...

Oh thanks for the response, Nikki, but I may have posed my question badly. I need to know if the "sl sl k" is on the armhole side or the neck edge, so that I can work out the left from the right sides.

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi Irene,

The Right Neck is what we're working, because you're turning to go back the other way--which, when it's being worn, is the right side. So the p2tog sts are at the neckline.

Irene Wood said...

Hi Nikki,
If you start knitting and knit up ± half the stitches, leave the remaining stitches on a holder and purl the next row, you are knitting on the left side - left of the wearer, that is. At least that's how I see it. The first side is the left side. I must be doing something wrong. Thanks for your patience here! You must be a patient person, because you are a great knitter!

Nikki Van De Car said...

I think you're not visualizing it quite right...but not to worry! I would say trust in the pattern and it'll all come out!

angelsbeauty said...

Help please! I'm working on the little old man cardigan on page 86 of the uk edition. It is my first attempt of a sweater so I may be a novice, however, it appears that the pattern only leaves room for one sleeve. When I slipped 44 stitches to my stitch older, I only casted on 4 and then purled 2 or so more before slipping another 44 to a stitch holder. If the 44 stitches are individually representing the sleeves, they appear to be too close to each other. If together they form one sleeve then how do I insert the second sleeve. I am hoping I don't have restart this project... I might cry! Lol. I could email you pictures if that would help.

Anonymous said...

Ike Sweater Vest- I am lost.Left shoulder rows don't work out for me. I changed to k5,cast off 28,k to end. The next 3 rows I am lost. Please help me. Such a beautiful collection of patterns for the wee ones. This proud grandmother has used many of these patterns with amazing gifts to give as a result!

Nikki Van De Car said...

Did you look through the errata on this page? It should be: K10, cast off 15 (18, 21), k to end. That should solve things for you!

Anonymous said...

Hi Nikki,
I am following the Baby Cozy pattern from the book. I like the flap. I notice that the corrections say to work in garter stitch for 5 rows after each increase. However, in the online version of the Baby Cozy pattern it says to work in garter stitch for 3 rows after the final increase. Which do you suggest for the book version of the baby cozy, 3 or 5 rows? Thanks!

Nikki Van De Car said...

The online version doesn't include the flap, which is why the garter stitch is shorter--if you like the flap, stick with the book version!

Anonymous said...

I'm working on the Baby Cozy (book version) and have gotten to the Body. I have 88 stitches as indicated. The subsequent instructions say to join then work 68 stitches and pm for the end of the round. Is 68 a typo? Should it be 88?
Also, in the book you do not indicate the length of the circular needles but online baby cozy you indicate 24". What is your suggestion for the book version? Does it matter? Thanks!

Nikki Van De Car said...

It should be 68--this places the end of round at the back of the cozy.

And 24-inch circular is what I feel comfortable with, but I like them on the tight side--if you have a different size circular needle and it'll work, feel free to use that!

Charity Ann said...

So, I made your autumn leaves sweater for my 4 month old, but it fit my 3 year old. Uh oh! :) I used a different yarn, but the gauge was almost the same, just one stitch smaller. It's super cute...just the wrong size. Any tips on making it in a smaller size? I didn't notice stitch numbers for the smaller size in the pattern. Thanks!

Nikki Van De Car said...

A change in gauge can make a big difference, though that does seem really different! I would go down yet another needle size, and use an even thinner yarn.

Sally said...

Hi Nikki,

Thanks for replying to these all individually!

I'm just wondering with the Old Man Cardigan, I am up to the button hole rows and in the 0-3 month size it says:
Work 3 rows straight, then a buttonhole row, then work 6 rows straight, then a buttonhole row...
Does this mean they are on either side or the cardigan rather than the same side? Or have I got baby brain?!

Thanks in advance.

Nikki Van De Car said...

It should work out so that the buttonholes are on the same side--an even number, and then a buttonhole on the following row should get you back to the same side, yes?

Sally said...

Hi Nikki,

Thanks so much for responding. But I am so confused and I must be crazy, because even when I draw it out, I get them opposite :(

-->LHS buttonhole row
<-- row 1
--> row 2
<-- row 3
--> row 4
<-- row 5
-->LHS row 6 (should I put the buttonhole here?)
RHS<-- buttonhole row (if it is here, it ends up on the wrong end) :(

Also the instructions for size 3-6months are to knit 7 rows straight, which would mean that even if 6 or 8 rows worked for the 0-3 and 6-12, then the 3-6mths wouldn't work...

Or is it just me? :)

Nikki Van De Car said...

Oh, I see what you're saying! Yes, clearly that is a mistake--it should obviously be an odd number. Work it for seven rows.

Sally said...

Thanks Nikki and sorry for the silly questions! I am still a rather new knitter and don't trust my own judgement yet :)

Will post a pic on Ravelry when it is done. Thanks again.

Anonymous said...

Hi Nikki,
I am knitting Autumn Leaves from your book (not the free pattern online).

I saw that someone had previously asked about the instructions for Row 22 within the *, but I had a question about the stitches before that part of the row.

Row 22: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, yb, sl 1 k1 psso, k1, k2tog....

Should this "yb" be a "yo"? Or are you supposed to hold the yarn to the back while you slip 1 and k1?

Nikki Van De Car said...

You're supposed to keep the yarn to the back--I just wanted to make sure there weren't any accidental yarnovers.

Anonymous said...

Ok, so for the beginning of the row you are not doing any increases. Then once you start *yb, p2... you will be increasing since you are purling with the yarn at the back of the work. Is that right?

Nikki Van De Car said...

Exactly.

Anonymous said...

Can you add all the corrections to the baby cozy hat? The instructions in the book are clearly wrong, in more than one place. I see that others have had a difficult time completing it. Unfortunately, I don't see where the corrections are listed.

www.leashless.co.uk said...

Hi, just finished the hat to go with the baby cosy, and found some of the instructions tricky. Finding this page and using the photograph helped, and the finished items look right.
These are what I think are the right instructions:
Follow pattern until 'repeat from *' then, as noted by a previous commenter, the * to repeat from is missing. Following their advice I knitted 1 row between each increase row until I got 48 sets. Next follow the pattern and knit for 6 rows. Then p to end and CO 4sts at the end of the row before turning. Purl next row, Turn. Purl 44 sts p2tog yo p2, turn. Garter stitch 3 rows. Cast off.

I have the US and Canada edition. This and the tutu are the first ones I've knitted from the book, and I love the originality of the designs. Maybe an errata page could be included with the book?

Thanks,
Kat

Anonymous said...

Hi Nikki,I am a new knitter and making the baby cozy. I did not learn of the error or the size (0-3 months) until after buying supplies. Unfortunately, a baby cozy is completely unsuitable for August in my location, and I was planning to make it in the 3-6 month size. Do you have tips that a novice could follow for increasing the size?

Anonymous said...

Hello, I am working on the Summer Sky Blanket (pg. 22), I just learned how to pick up and knit. I was wondering if anyone could explain how we pick up 97 stitches on the CO edge if there are only 96? Also, when we turn the blanket to pick up along the vertical edge it says to pick up and knit 6 st after turning counter clockwise. I guess I was wondering how we are to pick up 6 when there are 11 stitches, and how do these st go longer than the MC? Not sure if that makes sense, I'm confused enough that it's hard for me to explain it, sorry.

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi there,

It's a little tricky, but frequently knitting patterns will ask you to pick up a different number of stitches than you see in front of you--usually less. You just kind of evenly space them out, and in the case of the extra stitch, you can pick up into the front and back of the stitch.

Geraldine said...

Hi Nikki, could I knit Hannah jacket on straight needles? I am not a confident 'knitter in the round" Also, my 8 month old grandson is taller than average...any hints.. I am a fairly loose knitter..Kr Gerri Talbot in Oz

Beth said...

Hi Nikki,

I am working on the Sophie Blouse and got about 24 rows done when I realized there were no buttonholes in the pattern. Any thoughts? I am now frogging all the way back to the beginning.

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi Geraldine,

The pattern is actually written for to be knit straight--I only recommend circulars because of the number of stitches. You're welcome to use straight needles if you like!

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi Beth,

I'm not sure what you're referring to--I don't specifically state which rows are buttonhole rows, but they're there! Row 2 of the raglan section is a buttonhole row, for instance.

Anonymous said...

Hi Nikki,
I received "What to knit when you're expecting" before the arrival of my little one and I just love it. At the moment, I am knitting the Hannah Duffle Coat for my friend's newborn but I am stuck at the description for the border. I have the French edition (2013) so I try my best to translate the problematic passage into English : "knit two and then purl two together, transfer the stitches from the right to the left needle and pull the yarn behind them". I don't really understand how to pull the yarn through. What is the correct English instruction? Maybe I can find my way with it more easily - or if you have any other tips. Thanks a lot in advance!!! Cath

Anonymous said...

I'm knitting the edging on the Hannah Jacket. I can't get the I-chord look based upon the picture and the directions. Was there an error in the photograph? Maybe there was an omission on the instruction regarding knitting a whole separate I-chord and sewing it on the edge? I found the given directions on pg 43: k2, p2tog (wrap yarn around) slip sts back onto left needle ambiguous and very tedious once I got it going. It doesn't look a bit like the picture. What gives?
Pauline

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi Pauline,

An attached i-cord can be a little tricky until you get the handle of it. There are several youtube videos that can help you visualize it a little better--here's one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SsiSVGpGxA

Jane said...

Hi Nikki. Love your creations! We were lucky to have an extract of your book (the Kalen cardigan, p91) on our website but I have had a comment from a reader. Are you able to answer this?
"Hi, I just started this adorable sweater for my grandson and on the Back working as a 3T,(51) I can’t seem to come up with the same sts as I have 31 sts left on after doing the 10 rows and do not know how to come up with 21 sts, was it a typo? I will start the other sections and would love to hear from you. Thanks"
Thank you
Jane

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi there,

The numbers in the book add up correctly for me. Are you decreasing one stitch at each end? Have you repeated the decrease rows the correct number of times?

Jane said...

Thanks Nikki. I will pass this on.

Anonymous said...

Hi Nikki,

I'm a novice knitter and I'm currently working on the leg warmers from page 36. I was trying to figure out when i'm working Round 2 of the Turn Leaf lace pattern, it says "keep yf, k2" and I was wondering if i'm supposed to keep yf for both those knit stitches or just the first one? Any help you can give me would be great. Thank you!

Desmadejada said...

Hi Nikki!

What happen with de Spanish Edition?
Could you tell me the erratas?
Because I´m knitting some patterns and I've found it... I can read the erratas in english here, but not some spanish people that buy this book and don't speak english.
Could you include the errata page about this edition?
Thank you

Nikki Van De Car said...

Hi there,

Unfortunately, I don't speak Spanish! I don't have any contact with my Spanish publisher, but I'd recommend that any confused knitters inquire with them...